![]() ![]() I'm already fairly confident the issue isn't the Passkey system. Actually it also has a run/crank, ignition relay in spot 32, I suppose I should check that relay depending on what my results on shorting the starter are. The reason I even mentioned a starter relay though is because the diagram under the fuse box lid lists a starter relay on spot 31. Guess I'm going to have to get under the car and see if I can short the starter to give me a better answer. Saturn S, L and Vues disable injector operation when Passlock security flashes during a starting attempt - the starter with run and crank the engine but without injector operation the engine will never fire up. Saturn Ions disable the starting circuit when Passlock is enabled, detects a theft attempt, flashes security and disables the starting circuit. In the event the starter runs and cranks the engine before rapping on it, there may be a security issue related to electronic starting, preventing staring if factory security in Auras prevents the starter from operating as part of factory theft protection. Your choice to leave it as is and take chances it won't fail or replace it. If the starter runs to crank the engine then its likely worn out. Rapping on the starter body may get it to run but is no guarantee of the starter working on every startup especially after many years of reliable service while long past new car warranty. Either the starter operates immediately or not. As long as the vehicle is in Park and parking brake engaged, removing the fuel pump fuse, injector fuse or both will ensure the engine not starting up. Some are hesitant of being under the car, shorting starter terminals with the engine cranking. You're effectively bypassing any electronic or conventional starting circuit by powering the starter with 12v on the large terminal on the starter solenoid. Shorting two starter solenoid terminals, one with the large battery cable (and a smaller gauge wire connecting to the alternator side post) to the small terminal with one wire should result in the starter immediately powering up. Without a remote starter (a pair of wires, alligator clips on one end, the other end having a momentary pushbutton), you can initiate starter operation by simply using needle nose pliers or a screwdriver. You have the option to test the starter directly or remotely with a simple pair of wires extended away from the engine. All 12v starters need 12v to the starter solenoid to begin the starting sequence of powering the starter solenoid that pulls in the starter gear while simultaneously closing heavy duty contacts to send battery power to the starter motor to crank the engine. The ecm sends a start command signal (after security verification) to a START relay closing contacts sending 12v to the starter. Push button starting sends a signal to the ecm. Service manual, online subscription to Alldata or Mitchell, library access to Alldata, free wiring info from third party sources or a member posting wiring drawing.Įlectronic starting usually accompanies factory security programming with many vehicles using push button electronic starting. ![]() Whether or not your Aura uses a START relay as part of electronic starting as opposed to conventional starting with 12v supplied from the ign switch to the starter depends on knowing specific starting circuit wiring. Any ideas would be welcome at this point, before I end up spending money on a starter that won't help. I haven't been brave enough to tap on the starter to see if the car will start that way. Battery cables are prestine and no corrosion on terminals, making solid connections. I have the V6 engine if that'll help anyone else form an opinion. ![]() I do have a PassTime device installed as I'm still paying on the car but the dealership has already reset the thing twice- it's not PassTime device locking my car). More info: no unusual lights on dash (I've read that there's some sort of security issue that locks down an engine and the light for that shows up on the dash. Since it's not clicking at all, I am leaning more towards the relay over the starter. I did a visual inspection of the relay and didn't see anything, although I haven't actually tested with a multimeter yet (don't have one right now). This has me confident it's not the alternator either.Īt this point, I'm thinking it's either the starter relay or the starter itself. Tested the battery and it came up fine, and just to be sure I bought a new battery from Autozone (they made sure it was charged themselves before selling it to me) and ended up with the same results. Dash lights turn off when I turn the key in the ignition, so I had assumed it was a bad battery. It would crank really slowly before actually starting and running. The other day, it was reluctant to start. I've had it for a little over two months at this point, drives great for an '09 with 106k miles. ![]()
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